The Epson Perfection 1670 is a high-resolution scanner that is designed to offer professional-quality scans of photographs, documents, and other materials. This scanner features an Advanced MatrixCCD™ optical system, which provides high-resolution optical scanning up to 3200 dpi. It also features an LED light source, which helps to reduce power consumption and warm-up time. The scanner's software bundle includes Epson Scan, which allows for easy one-touch scanning and offers powerful features such as dust removal and color restoration. Additionally, the Epson Perfection 1670 also comes with Digital ICE™ Technology, which can remove scratches, dust, and fingerprints from scanned images. The Epson Perfection 1670 is an ideal choice for anyone looking for a professional-level scanner that can produce high-quality results.
Ostatnia aktualizacja: Dokument rozwiązania Epson Perfection 1670
Używanie panelu sterowania
Skanowanie można rozpocząć, wybierając następujące funkcje z panelu sterowania.
Funkcja Scan to PC umożliwia automatyczne skanowanie oryginału i zapisywanie go jako plik JPEG na komputerze.
Za pomocą funkcji Scan to E-mail (Skanuj do wiadomości e-mail) można zeskanować obraz i dołączyć go do wiadomości e-mail. Instrukcje zawiera rozdział Skanowanie bezpośrednio do wiadomości e-mail.
Funkcja Scan to PDF umożliwia automatyczne skanowanie oryginału i zapisywanie go jako plik JPEG na komputerze.
Do funkcji skanera na panelu sterowania można również przypisać program. com/onlineguides/pl/bx525_625/html_s/projs_7. htm#S-00900-00700">Przypisywanie programu do przycisku skanera.
Korzystanie z ikony EPSON Scan
Program Epson Scan można uruchomić klikając dwukrotnie ikonę EPSON Scan.
Windows: Kliknij dwukrotnie ikonę EPSON Scan na pulpicie. Ewentualnie kliknij ikonę przycisku Start lub menu Start > All Programs (Wszystkie programy) lub Programs (Programy) > EPSON > EPSON Scan > EPSON Scan.
Mac OS X: Wybierz Applications (Programy) > Epson Software > EPSON Scan.
Następuje otwarcie okna programu Epson Scan. Instrukcje dotyczące wybierania trybu pracy programu Epson Scan zawiera rozdział Wybieranie trybu programu Epson Scan.
Skanowanie za pomocą innych programów
Do skanowania z wykorzystaniem tego skanera można użyć dowolnego programu skanującego zgodnego ze standardem TWAIN, na przykład programu Adobe Photoshop Elements. Należy otworzyć program, wybrać funkcję Epson Scan, a następnie rozpocząć skanowanie. Po zakończeniu skanowania zeskanowany obraz zostaje otwarty w programie, z którego wywołaliśmy funkcję skanowania. Tam można dokonać jego obróbki, wydrukować lub zapisać.
Uruchom program do skanowania zgodny ze standardem TWAIN. Dwukrotnie kliknij ikonę programu na pulpicie, jeśli jest ona dostępna, lub wykonaj jedną z poniższych czynności:
Windows: Wybierz przycisk Start (Rozpocznij) lub menu Start (Rozpocznij) > All Programs (Wszystkie programy) lub Programs (Programy) > folder programu > ikona programu.
Mac OS X: Otwórz folder Applications (Aplikacje) na dysku twardym, wybierz folder programu i kliknij dwukrotnie ikonę programu.
Wykonaj następujące czynności.
Adobe Photoshop Elements: Windows: Kliknij opcję Edit and Enhance Photos, a następnie otwórz menu File (Plik), wybierz polecenie Import (Importuj) i wybierz skaner. Mac OS X: Kliknij przycisk Close (Zamknij) w oknie powitalnym (o ile jest wyświetlane), otwórz menu File (Plik), wybierz polecenie Import (Importuj) i wybierz skaner.
ArcSoft PhotoImpression: Kliknij polecenie Get Photos (Uzyskaj zdjęcia), a następnie Acquire from Scanner (Uzyskaj ze skanera) i wybierz skaner.
Otwórz menu File (Plik) i wybierz polecenie Get Photo (Uzyskaj zdjęcie), a następnie pozycję Camera/Scanner (Aparat fotograficzny/Skaner) i wybierz skaner.
Presto! PageManager: Otwórz menu File (Plik), wybierz polecenie Select Source (Wybierz źródło), a następnie wybierz skaner.
W niektórych programach należy najpierw wybrać skaner jako „źródło”. Jeśli wyświetlana jest opcja Select Source (Wybierz źródło), wybierz ją i wybierz najpierw używany skaner.
Uwaga dla użytkowników systemu Windows 7, Windows Vista i XP:
Nie należy wybierać opcji WIA dla skanera z listy Import (Importuj) lub Acquire (Pobierz); mogą nie być dostępne wszystkie funkcje skanera.
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Komentarz
Nick, FYI. Kodachrome was actually a silver based black and white film. The colors were introduced during processing. This alternative method resulted in two things, both positive and negative. By using a silver halide emulsion (like black and white film) and introducing color in processing, the film achieved a greater perceived sharpness, unparalleled longevity and resistance to fading. The downside was that the process (K-14) was extremely expensive, complicated and the chemicals toxic to the environments. There were no home Kodachrome developing kits and very few places in the country that could process it. Hence, its demise. Ektachrome, Fujichrome and other E-6 Process slide films do not have silver in the emulsion but color based dye layers,—cyan, magenta and yellow. Cheaper and easier, but less longevity. Same reason you can’t use your IR dust removal with Kodachrome (or black and white film) as the IR picks up the silver grain and interprets a lot of it as dust and you lose detail and sharpness.
I have watched
This is exactly what I've been needing to take my scans to the next level. Keep up the great work, Nick!
Great comparison video! I always wondered what the attraction was to DSLR scanning. Ive always suspected that it would be a pain even when it comes to feeding the negatives through. A good scanner like the V850 and Silverfast is the way to go. I’ve scanned a 200mp medium format frame on mine.
Hey Nick,
Hey Nick, I really enjoyed this video and explanations. I'm in the process of buying a RZ67 with that sweet 110mm for portraits. I'm wondering, how do you do when you want to scan the film borders but still get the proper negafix tweaks? I think that some images (not all) look better when the border is visible, it gives them a frame.
I have this feeling you've made a lot of people dangerous Nick. This is by FAR the most awesome scanner "how to" I have seen...... and JUST before I buy my scanner!! Talk about timing!!! I knew I was smart to go back to some of your older videos....and even smarter to follow you!! You rock!!!
Excellent tutorial, Nick. I rarely have patience for most YT tutorials and this was well-paced. One thing is that the scanner does not
Great video. Question: if you decide to print the photo, would you print using the digital scan or the negative? I wonder if there's any difference in terms of image quality.
Great video ! I had my Epson V750 PRO for 12 years now and learned more by watching this video than I ever did. Trying to concentrate on the V750 online-manual is not an easy task. This gives me hope that I can get back to my hobby and have some fun doing it. Thanks a lot, looking forward to watching your wet-scanning video.
Nick - thanks for all the great tips! Couple questions - have you found that using the trays is better than taping the negs to a piece of AN glass and using shims? I watched your video of that method, and have been using a similar approach…which leads me to Q2: I’ve been taping one edge of a strip of negs to a heavy piece of AN glass (base side against the AN side of the glass), and then laying that glass on the scanner glass and scanning using the wide transparency/film area guide setting. So my negs are facing emulsion side down on the scanner glass. I’m getting great results this way, and haven’t noticed the flare effects you mentioned. Can you see a downside to that approach? Thanks again!
Nick, Your tutorial holds up still 4+ years later. Great guide on the Epson and for Negative Lab Pro. I have come back to it a few times since I picked up my Epson scanner to make sure I am doing it right.
Watching you and Greg Heisler and Gregory Crewdson is so interesting. I’ve never shot film, just a DSLR. I’m taking an intro 35mm film class this semester and looking forward to it, hopefully I can get my hands on a 4x5 camera for a bit. I had a 17mm tilt shift for a week once and it was so enjoyable to use, I can’t imagine a proper view camera.
Perfect timing. Was about to pick up a scanner and this helps clarify a lot of the process for me and gives me a great foundation on where to start. Glad I subscribed a few weeks ago after seeing your Liquor Store video. Please keep it up!! I will be a regular viewer even if it is not relevant to what I shoot, you have a stellar way of explaining things. You have me starting to prowling the web for some film gear when here I thought I was only intending to scan some old negatives.
Great video, Nick. My workflow is very similar, however I don't use an Epson Scanner. I only shoot 35mm film, so I have a dedicated 35mm film scanner (Plustek 8200), which comes with the Silverfast 8. I love this software, especially the NegaFix tool. Unfortunately, the iSRD doesn't work too well, but it's the fault of the hardware. The Plustek's infrared scanning channel is not good enough so I always have to work on dusts in Photoshop before I import the scans into Lightroom, but it's not a big deal. :)
That SilverFast tip on only selecting within the frame!!!! OMG I went straight down and started rescanning Portra 160 again. What a difference this makes!! Prior to this I hated scanning colour film. The results are so much better and faster! Thankyou!!
You're a lifesaver. Dont know how I'd be working my scanner without this video - 3 years on from when you uploaded this. Absolutely loving the film dev process and can't thank you enough for making it that much more enjoyable!
I'm not even an analog photographer but I'm halfway through this video because
Thanks for a good, practical video on flatbed scanner technique. So many people use flatbeds to scan these days. That said, the dedicated film scanners from the XP era, particularly the Minoltas, are faster and give a better result. The "price" of that is coping with adapting older hardware connections and doing software workarounds to run XP designed software in the Windows 10 era. More recently, there is also the problem of finding good old scanners, which used to be a dime a dozen but no longer. The differences are most apparent on 35mm; much less so for medium format.
Nick! Thank you so much for doing this detailed and thorough video! I've had my v750 for years and never needed to scan negatives, up until a week ago when a client had a batch of slides and negatives to be scanned. I was asked if I could handle it, of course said, "absolutely, do this stuff all the time." Then needed to learn in a hurry. I also use SilverFast, there is nothing that can compete there,, so that was handy. Then grabbed a few of my old negatives to practice with. The NegaFix tip alone was really helpful,. I'm inspired to finally tackle all of my own scanning. I was sending stuff out (ScanCafe), not my better stuff, just lots of b roll that I was ok with chancing the process to. So, finally got to my practice scanning and was really surprised with just how good the scans were. Got comfortable and moved onto the client work. Everything was soft to the tiniest bit blurry. Bummer! I tried adjusting the focus feet on the tray (yup, thanks for that tip too!) which had a negligible affect, but it helped. So, then I scanned at 3200, over sharpened in photoshop then reduced size and printed as 8x10s. Not too bad and my client was pleased! So... Thanks again Nick! I've been really enjoying your channel. The printing videos, awesome!